Copy-Machine
Etching
Master a quick and easy way to etch designs and lettering
into
brass or copper using a normal Xerox-type copier and some simple tools.
Excellent
for use in jewelry, assemblage and collage. Alternate
methods of easy etching will also be covered.
2008 UPDATE: I have been working overtime trying to correct outdated links and fix a few bits and pieces on this supply list, so please be sure to check back by mid-February for the updated list. Thanks for your patience! -KL
The tools below are things you will be using in the workshop, and to avoid having to wait for a communal tool to become available, you should plan on getting them for the class:
• Hand drill. A cordless, variable-speed hand drill is
perfect and will be one of the most useful tools in your home, trust me! Here
is one for $30 that fits the bill: <http://toolprice.com/product/1292L> Be
sure to charge up the battery before getting to the class! For those who don't
want to get the electric drill, Fiskars
makes a good and very inexpensive one (like under $15!): <http://www.yourartsncrafts.com/fiskarsmanualdrill.html> It
isn't as versatile, but it will work in a pinch.
• Set
of drill bits (any standard hardware-store set of 'high-speed
steel' drill bits)
• Two extra 1/16" drill bits
• Piece of scrap wood to drill into
• Scraps or sheets of copper, brass or nickel; or objects made of these metals you'd like to etch onto. Remember that if you use foil-thin metal, you will only be able to etch very lightly. Copper or brass sheeting (up to 1 mm thick is perfect) can be purchased most inexpensively through a local metal surplus yard...look in the yellow pages under scrap metal, then call to ask if they allow the public to buy. The metal is sold by the pound, so it's much cheaper than buying it from a jewelry or hobby supply. Most model train / hobby stores will have sheets of brass and copper as well. I would recommend against the rolls of copper foil sold in some craft stores, as it is so thin that there isn't much depth to etch into, but if you have some, bring it, as it can still be used for certain effects.
• Tin
snips (Wiss makes the most commonly found one, though
if you're planning on snipping a lot of metal, these aviation 'lever
snips' cut beautifully with less hand effort (one cuts to the left,
and one to the right, and either will cut straight):
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/to/handtools.html?pg=3>
• Several copied designs you'd like to try to etch (keep
them small. be sure they are from a copier using toner, and not laser
copies...if it is black and white or color TONER, they are OK. Try
to keep them purely graphic, as photographic grey-tones won't translate as
well with this method [unless they are screened in a dot pattern]. In either
case, make sure the copies are good and black, with lots of toner on the paper.
Bring at least three copies of each image you want to try. if you want to etch
lettering, you must first copy it onto copier-safe acetate, then flip the acetate
over and copy that onto paper, making the type backwards on the paper...make
sense? Keep in mind that whatever you copy will be flipped from the original.)
Bold, strong images will tend to give better results (i.e., copies with lots
of black).
Another
suggestion regarding copies for the class is not to gang the images
up smack next to each other; leave at least 1 inch of white paper
around each side of the image. You'll breathe a bit easier!
Note: Many KINKO'S copies will not give a satisfactory result,
I've found...
must be something to do with their own toner...try a different copy center.
• A bottle of ferric chloride solution. This can be bought
at Radio Shack, as 'PCB (circuit board) etchant.' If you're in the class with
a friend, you can share a bottle.
• Small can of acetone (available at any hardware store). Don't bring nail-polish remover, as it is weaker than pure acetone. If you're in the class with a friend, you can share a bottle.
• Small
bottle of ammonia. If you're in the class with a friend,
you can share a bottle.
• A small flat plastic tupperware or microwave-dinner tray,
about 1-2 inches deep
• Cotton balls, or better yet, cotton pads
• Scotch-Brite pad
• Sharpie or other PERMANENT marker (the fresher the better...get
a wide one as well as a fine one).
• Roll of masking tape (as wide a roll as you can get)
or clear packing tape
• Old
rag for wiping up any spills, etc.
OPTIONAL (these will enable you to cut out your metal more precisely):
• jeweler's
saw (get one ideally with a 5" to 8" 'throat'...Gesswein
has a 4.75" saw frame that will do it: <http://www.gesswein.com/catalog/catalog.cfm?cat=2&sub=9&subsub=12&catalog=1&CFID=119556&CFTOKEN=8296871> and
click on 187-1200 Flat Saw Frame 4 3/4")
• saw blades (get two sizes: <http://www.gesswein.com/catalog/catalog.cfm?cat=2&sub=9&subsub=3&catalog=1&CFID=119556&CFTOKEN=8296871>,
1 dz.
• jeweler's
bench pin. Used as a helping hand for all sorts of tasks,
this can really be a life-saver. A simple one is pictured here: <
Please email me with any questions you might have that this page didn't address.
See you there! Keith
